Jinbocho – Tokyo’s second-hand book district
30th October 2014 § 2 Comments
The bookshop: that melting pot where ideas and imagination come together to inspire generations. International symbol of freedom, knowledge, expression and the exchange of ideas. When I describe it that way, I feel more than a little guilty that in the last year I have bought the majority of my books in electronic format, therefore contributing to the decline of the industry. Oh well.
But the bookshop is more than just a place to buy books. It is a place of inspiration. The words and wisdom of thousands of writers, dead and living, waiting to be read, consumed and digested, hundreds of new or forgotten ideas ready to be discovered… And arguably, the main reason for visiting a bookshop shouldn’t be about picking up the latest work by your favourite author (it’s always cheaper online, let’s be honest), but about finding something you never even considered that you might like to read.
And if you enjoy the thrill and mystery of shelves stacked with unknown, potentially inspiring, possibly even life-changing books, you might enjoy a visit to Jinbocho.
Jinbocho is Tokyo’s famous used book district, known for its numerous second-hand bookshops and book stalls. And I’m not talking about picking up three 2009 bestsellers for a pound, or a battered old classic you say you’ll read but then never do (sorry Tolstoy). Sure, you can find those in Jinbocho, but the real allure is in finding something old and rare, or a forgotten remnant of another period of culture.
You can find classic manga from bygone decades; vintage posters for movies, bands and pin-ups; old science fiction novels with those cheesy covers, and a whole lot more.
One of my favourite shops in the area is Bookhouse. The ground floor is dedicated to children’s literature, with a carpeted reading area with sofas and big character plushies. There’s also a gallery at the back featuring exhibitions by various illustrators. It’s fantastic not only for children who love to read, but also for adults with an interest in the art of children’s writing and illustration, or simply with fond memories of childhood literature.
Climbing a gorgeous staircase leads you up to the English language floor, a place I could happily live in forever. It has a huge number of classics and books on a broad range of subjects, but my favourite section is one dedicated to Japanese history and culture as written by English speakers visiting the country, some as early as the 1800s. It’s fascinating to read accounts of a nation that was, at the time, generally a mystery to the western world. Exploring further on this floor, I found some rare-looking editions of classics, including a huge edition of William Blake’s poetry that I could barely lift (and which cost 63000yen – £360 or $630).
Other stores in the area include one that specialises in fine art books, one that sells science fiction novels and American comics, another selling old maps, one selling vintage magazines, and an antique traditional Japanese card game shop. You can even find a shop selling books on insect taxonomy, if that’s your hobby. In short, Jinbocho is a book lover’s paradise.
Of course, if you happen to be fluent in Japanese or Chinese, you can probably get more out of the experience, but a large number of the stores do stock English books, and there is a lot more to find here beside novels. Regardless of the language, though, the sight of so much rare and fascinating literature in one small area of Tokyo is a beautiful thing. It’s also heartening to see that the streets are always crowded with shoppers, a sign that curiosity and thirst for knowledge are very much alive.
Japan and Too Much Information
5th July 2014 § Leave a comment
A bus ride in Kyoto, Japan’s former capital and a city famed for its sights, should be a pleasant and relaxing experience. But rather than allowing you to watch the temples and shrines roll past in peace, some higher power in Kyoto has decided that what you really need is an automated voice giving you endless information:
“The next stop is Kyoto station. The bus will soon be stopping. The bus is now stopping. The doors are now opening. Please take care. The doors are now closing. Please take care. The next stop is…”
And all of this, bizarrely, in a Microsoft Sam-style text to speech software’s robotic staccato. And just in case (god forbid) there’s a pause in this relentless stream of information, the bus driver is there to repeat the same information you just heard.
This was not my first experience of Japan’s obsession with information. I had previously worked in customer service at one of the country’s many popular ski resorts. Anybody who has been shopping in Japan will know how the staff speak to the customers. The entire process is narrated (“The total amount is 1,329 yen. I’m receiving 2,000 yen. I’m returning 671 yen.” etc. etc.”). My job at the ski resort was a little bit different, but worked on the same principle, meaning that we spoke almost constantly, narrating the entire procedure while telling the customer exactly what they needed to do. At the very end, we advised the customer on how to carry their equipment.
This last part was actually quite vital. If you have a large set of skis, two heavy boots, ski wear, gloves, goggles and only two hands, it can be a bit of a puzzle. Fair enough. However, I wanted to try an experiment. A cruel, cruel experiment.
A customer arrived at the counter asking to rent only a pair of ski boots. They had brought their own skis and left them in one of the racks by the locker room. A pair of boots shouldn’t be too hard to carry, I thought, so when I placed the boots on the counter, instead of explaining how to carry them (by the strap) I simply said, “douzo” (“here you are”). Then I watched them struggle.
They looked at the boots, and then at me, then back at the boots. They picked them up by the straps (yes! I thought. They’ve got it!), then put them back down. They wrapped their arms awkwardly around the boots and tried to lift them that way, but soon gave up and put them down once again. Then they just looked at me as if I was some kind of tormentor (which I evidently was).
Now, many people might argue that information is a good thing, and on principle it is. When a cashier tells you how much money you gave him/her and how much change you’re getting back, you know they haven’t made a mistake and short-changed you. But you don’t need a long list of safety instructions read out to you every time you ride an escalator. We have information-free escalators in the UK and so far I’ve seen very few people die while riding them.
I feel there’s an over-reliance on this information in Japan, and if you stop the constant flow, people feel lost and don’t know what to do. Simple tasks like picking up a pair of shoes become incredibly taxing, because people aren’t used to having to think about them.
A lot of the time, though, there’s a double redundancy. If the ATM doesn’t sound an alarm and an automated voice doesn’t tell you not to forget your card and cash, would you leave without them? Or are the on-screen message and flashing lights at the card slot and cash dispenser enough? If the bus driver doesn’t fill in the silences by repeating the information that the automated voice just told you, will you feel lost and start to panic? Probably not. If you weren’t listening, you can always read the screen at the front of the bus, or maybe, you know, look out the window and use the basic human function of sight. Otherwise, you can just enjoy a rare moment of silence in Japan before the onslaught of useless information continues.
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Thanks for reading!
Travels in Japan – Tokyo and Kyoto (part 1)
21st April 2014 § Leave a comment
It’s been over two weeks since I finished working in Niigata, and since then I’ve been going to so many places and doing so much that I’ve barely had time to take a break. Now that I’ve got a few hours free (sitting on a coach for nine hours as I go from Tokyo to Kansai for the second time), it seems like a good idea to keep a record of my travels so that I can look back and be reminded of my experiences, as well as sharing them with whoever wants to read about them. For now, I’ll just share with you a few highlights from the last two weeks.
Hanami
My work in Niigata finished at the best possible time, with the start of Spring, which, in Japan, means cherry blossom season. My sister Ellen arrived at the start of the month, and one of the first places I took her to was Ueno Park for what’s known as ‘hanami’, or ‘cherry-blossom viewing’.
It was a breath-taking sight, not only in Ueno Park, but at the Imperial Palace, Yoyogi Park, and all over Tokyo. Streets were lined with pink and white blossoms, falling in their hundreds as we walked from place to place. They floated on the surfaces of lakes and ponds, and even after seeing them every day for over a week, I still had to stop and take a photo. I feel lucky to have been in Japan in this particular season, to see something beautiful that is unique to Japan, and something that the country is famous for.
The Ghibli Museum
It’s something of a cliché to call Hayao Miyazaki ‘the Japanese Walt Disney’, but a venture into a few shops in Tokyo reveals just how popular Studio Ghibli is. Every toy shop seems to have a Ghibli section, as do a lot of book stores and DVD stores. These sections are usually accompanied by a TV playing one of the films, or a speaker playing the Totoro theme, and some kind of decoration or display that makes this little section into its own special tribute to Japan’s most famous animation studio. When I see them, I can’t help but feel that Ghibli has the same magical hold over children and adults alike in Japan, as Disney does in the west.
The Ghibli muesum is in a fitting location. Far out from the centre of Tokyo in an area called Mitaka, it doesn’t feel like you’re in the city at all. The walk from the station to the museum is alongside a stream, which at the time of our visit was lined with white blossoms, and the museum itself is next to a wooded area where we ate our lunch before going inside.
The building also has the kind of character you would never expect from something that calls itself a ‘museum’. From outside, you can see stained glass windows depicting the films, and a spiral staircase that leads up to the roof. Inside, it feels like a grand house, perhaps the kind of home you would expect the creator of Studio Ghibli to live in, with an ornate lift and another narrow, caged spiral staircase leading to the third floor.
All of this, along with exhibits that shed light on the creative process behind more than 20 films, ties together to make an afternoon at the Ghibli museum an Experience, as opposed to merely being interesting. Added to that, is the fact that your ticket also includes a screening of a unique film which can only be seen at the Ghibli museum, and the film you see depends on the date you go.
This is, of course, a place every fan of Studio Ghibli, and everyone interested in animation, should visit, should you ever be in Tokyo.
Kyoto
After Tokyo, Kyoto is the number one destination for travel in Japan. Famous for temples such as Fushimi Inari Taisha, with its iconic red gates, and Kinkakuji, the ‘golden pavillion’ which sits beside a gorgeous lake, it is considered to contain some of the world’s most beautiful sights.
Being the budget travellers we are, we made the trip to Kyoto on an 8-hour night bus, something I plan to never attempt again. After arriving at 6:30am, exhausted from broken sleep, unable to check into our hotel for another 9 hours, we found ourselves in a city not too unlike the one we had left. Or so it seemed at first. From a high vantage point, Kyoto is just another large city, all grey towerblocks right up to the horizon, but more than a cursory look and you start to see the ornate roofs of temples and shrines breaking up the monochromatic cityscape.
It took a little while to warm to the place, but we soon discovered Kyoto’s beauty, not just in its temples, but in areas like Arashiyama, with its Moon Crossing Bridge, bamboo forest and, best of all, a monkey park that lets you climb a mountain while monkeys walk alongside you.
On our final day in Kyoto, we visited the Kyoto Prefectural Insho Domoto Museum of Fine Arts to see an exhibition on the changing of the seasons in Kyoto, as depicted by a number of different aritists. It seemed an appropriate way to end our brief stay, seeing the same beauty we had witnessed ourselves, through the eyes of an artist, including some of the places we had visited and recognised.
After that, we returned to Tokyo (on another awful night bus). But that’s a story for another blog post!
Life as a foreigner in rural Japan
3rd March 2014 § 1 Comment
I’ve been living here in Japan for over 2 1/2 months now, so I thought I’d write a couple of blog posts about my experiences here, and my thoughts on some of the more interesting aspects of Japanese culture and society. I’ll start with what it’s like to be a foreigner here.
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Just a couple of weeks after arriving here, I was having a conversation with a Japanese girl in the cafeteria. After a brief conversation, I asked her to add me on Facebook. She did so, and when I got back to my room and accepted her request, I checked her profile. There, her last status, made shortly after we started talking, was, ‘I’m talking to a British person! So cool!’
The word she used was ‘kakkoii’, meaning both ‘cool’ and ‘handsome’, and it seems like it’s obligatory to use this word every time there’s a foreigner nearby. When we first arrived, our presence was something of a novelty for a lot of people who had never left Japan and never lived in a large city, so this reaction was something I had to get used to. Even so, as someone who does not like a lot of attention, it can be hard to know how to react at times.
The Japanese perception of foreigners was one of the things that particularly interested me when I first arrived here. One of the most amusing things I discovered is the concept of ‘gaijin nyoi’, or ‘foreigner smell’. One person jokingly complained to me that when his foreign roommate hangs up his clothes to dry, the whole room smells of ‘gaijin nyoi’. Generally speaking, the ‘foreigner smell’ is considered to be a good smell. In fact, you might occasionally hear someone exclaim, ‘I wish I had that foreigner smell!’ Once, a friend of mine even overheard a group of people debating over who at the ski resort has the best ‘foreigner smell’. (Not to brag, but I came out favourably in this discussion. Thank you, Dove for Men!)
The perception of foreigners here varies greatly depending on the person and their experiences. Younger girls tend to get excited about the novelty, whereas some older people seem very shy around us, or even a little intimidated. In general, though, everybody wants to talk to us and get to know us, which really helped to make us feel welcome in the first few weeks. Now, we have all made some good friends, and the perception on both sides is moving away from stereotypes and preconceived ideas, to something more real.
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In my next post, I’ll talk about some of the interesting aspects of Japanese manners and etiquette. Until then, thanks for reading!
Science fiction, and why it’s cool
18th December 2012 § Leave a comment
There was a point when, during my final weeks at university, I was in the midst of an all-nighter, having wasted much of the several weeks I’d been given for the assignment. Around 5 in the morning, I made myself a promise. I promised myself that I would never, ever, no matter what, think about doing another degree, and that if the thought ever crossed my mind, I would think back to this moment and remember how I felt, red-eyed, delirious, hitting keys and just hoping I was still forming words, wishing I could sleep but knowing that I’d be awake for another 5 hours (AKA eternity). There’s no way I could do that to myself again.
Anyway, being the masochist that I am, I sometimes consider studying for a masters degree. In spite of everything, I do miss learning something new and fascinating every day. I miss the atmosphere of the university – the feeling of being in the library and knowing that there’s more knowledge in those books than you’ll ever have in your lifetime, and the fact that you see and hear so many interesting things just by walking around on campus.
One of the subjects I’ve considered a masters in is science fiction. I have a deep love of the genre, not because I think robots, space travel and time travel are cool (they are, obviously), but because as advancement in technology continues to accelerate, it’s becoming increasingly important that people think about the effect this is having on society, and on us as individuals.
One thing that irritates me when I go to most bookshops, or to the library, is that science fiction is always lumped together in the same section as fantasy, even though their purposes are so different. Personally, I don’t read for escapism, so while I know there are some excellent fantasy novels out there, the genre can rarely hold my interest. Science fiction, on the other hand, while there is sometimes an element of escapism, can encompass a great deal more than that.
SF novels are not about science and technology. They’re not about aliens, cyborgs or time-travellers. They’re about people. While fantasy takes you to another world, SF brings our own world to life, only not quite as we know it. SF writers think about how our own advancements in technology, culture, politics and other areas change the world we live in, and the way we live in it.
While the computer age continues to thrive, it’s been good to see a rekindling of interest in my favourite subgenre of SF, cyberpunk, a subgenre originally created in the 1980s when people were musing on what might be possible in the future thanks to computers. Now, of course, we have our own ideas about a future led by computers, though it’s interesting to compare our ideas with our 1980s counterparts, who imagined cyberspace becoming an actual space that you could enter. With inventions like Google’s Project Glass and the use of augmented reality in many smartphone apps as well as the Nintendo 3DS, we’re still thinking about the potential for virtual space, though we may think about it in different ways.
I suppose one of the things that draws me to science fiction as a genre is that the things it invents are within the realms of possibility (although things like telekinesis and genetic time travel disorders require some bullshitting). If we’re going to ask ‘what if…?’ it seems far more worthwhile if we’re thinking about things that could actually happen. Many SF novels contain themes that are relevant to our own lives, and it’s always been literature’s job to think about where we’re heading as a species and as a society.
In the 21st century, it’s technology (computers especially) dictating the direction of our progress, which is why science fiction is such an important area of literature.
If I do decide to do a masters degree in science fiction, I can only hope that when it’s morning and I’ve been writing all night, when the only thing stopping me from collapsing is the gallon of coffee I’ve consumed, I look back on these words and don’t hate myself too much.
A Blank Page
15th February 2012 § Leave a comment
Hello, and thanks for visiting my new blog. This is a place for me to record my thoughts, share things, and maybe post any scraps from my journals that I feel are ‘blog-worthy’.
As some of you may be aware, I have another blog over at euphilia.blogspot.com, in which I post about literature, music, video games and the like. But I’ve often felt that I want something with a wider scope, somewhere I can write about my personal experiences as well as my thoughts on society, culture, gender issues, the media and personal identity, among other things. Since my head is so often filled with pointless thoughts like this, I thought I might be able to make them marginally less pointless by blogging about them. If at least one person reads a post I make, I’ll have achieved something, and all this philosophising won’t be for nothing.
I hope you’ll check back now and then, or better yet follow the blog or my Twitter. I look forward to seeing you here!
Until then~